Portobello Road Market is one of London's great institutions — a mile-long stretch of stalls, shops, and arcades running through the heart of Notting Hill that has been trading since the 1860s. It is also one of London's most visited tourist attractions, which means that on a busy Saturday morning it can feel like the whole world has arrived at once.
The good news: knowing how the market is structured, which sections to visit on which days, and where the less-touristed spots are hidden makes an enormous difference. Here's what you need to know.
The Structure of the Market
Portobello Road market is not a single market but five overlapping markets occupying different sections of the road on different days:
Antiques Market (southern end, Saturday only) From Notting Hill Gate down to Elgin Crescent, this is the section most tourists are looking for — and the world's largest antiques market. Hundreds of dealers set up from around 7:00am selling silver, jewellery, ceramics, paintings, vintage watches, maps, photographs, and furniture spanning several centuries. The indoor arcades — notably the Portobello Antique Dealers Association arcades at the southern end — extend the market considerably.
General Market (central section, Monday–Saturday) Between Elgin Crescent and Lancaster Road, the market is a more workaday affair: fresh produce, household goods, clothing, and miscellaneous items. This section is quieter and more local in character than the antiques section.
Vintage Clothing and Jewellery (central-northern section, Friday–Saturday) The stretch between Lancaster Road and the Westway (the elevated motorway that crosses Portobello Road) is the vintage clothing district. Racks of second-hand clothing, vintage accessories, and vintage jewellery line both sides of the road, with more specialist shops in the arcades and side streets.
Fruit and Veg / Street Food (under and north of the Westway, Friday–Saturday) The stretch under the Westway and running north on Golborne Road is the most atmospheric section of the Friday and Saturday market. Street food stalls selling Caribbean, Moroccan, Mexican, and British food operate under the flyover and on the surrounding streets.
Golborne Road Market (extending north, Friday–Saturday) The road continues north of the Westway onto Golborne Road, where the market has a completely different character — smaller, more local, better value, and less touristed. This is where Moroccan and Portuguese communities have their stalls, and where Lisboa Patisserie (the best custard tarts in London) anchors the north end.
When to Visit
Saturday is the only day when all sections of the market operate simultaneously. It is the most impressive and most crowded day.
Friday is significantly less crowded and still has most sections operating — a better choice for calm browsing, especially in the vintage clothing section.
Monday to Thursday only the general produce market in the central section operates. Good for a quiet look at the street itself, but not the market experience.
The antiques dealers arrive early. If you're serious about antiques, arrive before 9:00am on a Saturday. By mid-morning, the serious dealers have often left and the best pieces have been purchased by trade buyers. By noon the street is extremely crowded.
The Arcades: Where the Serious Dealers Are
The outdoor stalls are the visible face of Portobello's antiques market, but much of the best and most specialist material is in the covered arcades that branch off the main road:
- Portobello Road Arcade (177 Portobello Road) — a large covered market with 30+ dealers
- The Antique Clothing Shop (282 Portobello Road) — three floors of vintage clothing, one of the best in London
- Several unnamed arcades between Chepstow Villas and Elgin Crescent contain specialist dealers in areas including militaria, Art Deco glass, vintage clocks, and scientific instruments
The arcades are easy to miss if you're walking quickly. Slow down, look for open doorways, and explore.
What to Buy (and What to Avoid)
Worth buying at Portobello:
- Silver and silverware (well-represented, prices competitive)
- Vintage jewellery and watches
- Antique maps and prints
- Art Nouveau and Art Deco ceramics and glass
- Original 20th-century art and photography
- Vintage denim and leather jackets (central section)
What to be cautious about:
- Reproduction furniture presented as antique — ask questions and check maker's marks
- Tourist tat at the southern end that gets mixed in with genuine antiques stalls on busy Saturdays
- 'Vintage' clothing at very high prices on Saturdays when the tourist crowd is largest — the same items are sometimes available at lower prices on Fridays
Eating and Drinking at the Market
For breakfast:
- Lisboa Patisserie (57 Golborne Road) — the city's best custard tarts and strong espresso, opens early on Saturdays
- The Grain Shop (269 Portobello Road) — organic and vegetarian breakfasts, deservedly popular
For lunch:
- Under the Westway — the street food stalls offer jerk chicken, Moroccan tagines, Caribbean rice dishes, and much more, all at fair prices
- Ottolenghi (63 Ledbury Road, just off Portobello) — for something more substantial, book a table at the deli or take away mezze and salads
Pubs:
- The Earl of Lonsdale (277 Westbourne Grove) — a Samuel Smith's pub, serving extremely cheap beer in Victorian surroundings, closes during market hours but worth checking
- The Sun in Splendour (7 Portobello Road) — the ideal post-market pub, busy but friendly
Practical Tips
- Bring cash: Many stall holders prefer cash, and ATMs near the market get busy on Saturday mornings.
- Wear comfortable shoes: The market stretches over a mile; you'll be on your feet for several hours.
- Negotiate: Prices on antiques stalls are generally negotiable, especially later in the day or if you're buying more than one item. Ask politely: "Is that your best price?"
- Arrive with a bag: Most dealers don't provide bags. Bring a sturdy tote.
- Avoid driving: Parking is extremely difficult on Saturday mornings. The nearest Tube station (Notting Hill Gate) is five minutes' walk.
- Weather doesn't stop the market: Most antiques dealers have covered or semi-covered stalls. The market runs in all weather.
Portobello Road at its best — a weekday when you can browse without crowds, or an early Saturday morning when the serious dealers are still setting up and the light on the white-painted houses is at its most beautiful — is one of London's genuine pleasures. Give it more than an hour and you'll understand why it's been drawing dealers and browsers here for 160 years.